PCT Days 46-54

I awoke on day 46 ready to hike, despite the light drizzle and grey clouds. It was chilly and a bit windy as we set out to hike the 24 miles across the Mojave desert and up into the mountains again. The sun came out after a short while, and the boring miles across the desert were at least passed comfortably. The trail follows the LA aqueduct for quite awhile. As we reached the end of the desert walk, temps in the upper 50s, we reached a wind farm through which the trail slowly gained elevation. At this point the wind picked up, and by the time I reached the canyon where we were going to camp, there were sustained 20-30 mph winds with 50 mph gusts. Everyone struggled with getting their tents set up, but managed it eventually, and the tents were where we stayed the rest of the night, as the temperature dropped and the wind became bitterly cold. It eventually calmed overnight, and we were able to get some sleep.

On day 47, the plan was to hike the 17 miles to Tehachapi Willow Springs Road, where we could hitch in to Tehachapi. The day was warmer than the previous weeks had been, with plenty of sun. The trail snakes its way through several wind farms here, and is generally easygoing along rolling ridges and gentle switchbacks. Once we got to the road, it was an easy hitch to town, where Joren, Benjamin, Gigs and I all got dropped off at the Best Western. Joren and I shared a room. We showered before heading to dinner at Thai Hachapi, a local thai restaurant. It was pretty good, and afterward we headed back to watch TV and drink beer and relax.

Day 48 was to be a zero, but a busy one, as everyone needed a trip to REI. Lubos and Tereza rented an SUV, and after setting up a tent and stashing our packs at the municipal airport where hikers can camp, the 7 of us set out for Northridge, a 1.5 hour drive south. The REI didn’t have everything everyone needed though, so we then drove to the REI in Burbank, a much larger store. After getting myself new shoes (Altra Superior 4) and new trekking poles, I was able to resupply for cheap at the 99 cents only store. We then headed back to Tehachapi, where we got pizza and beer and had a great night.

We decided the night previous to hike just 8 miles on day 49. There are two roads from which a hiker can get to Tehachapi, and we had taken the first. The second was 8 miles further down the trail, past some wind farms. From the first road, where we had gone into town, it is 25 miles until the next water source. By hiking the 8 miles with just day packs, we were able to cut that to a much more reasonable 16.8 miles. Hiking with only a couple spare layers, a few snacks and some water was liberating, and with my new shoes gripping the trail, I was cruising. I got through the 8 miles in just over 2 hours. Once everyone finished and got to the highway, I called a trail angel for a ride and not too long later, we were back in town. Joren, Benjamin and I went to the local BBQ restaurant and ordered the family feast: a full rack of ribs; a pound each of pulled chicken, pulled pork, and pit beef; a large salad; 4 buns; and 3 sides, which we selected as double fries and red slaw. It was truly a feast, a monumental meal. We didn’t quite finish, bringing back a little pork and chicken, a few buns and some salad, but we made a valiant effort nonetheless. I went to bed a bit too full, but glad to have enjoyed some great food.

We had breakfast the second day in a row at the bakery in town before getting a ride to the trail. The plan for day 50 was to hike at least 16.8 miles to the first water source, at mile 583.3. We didn’t start hiking until shortly after 10, and the day was already hot. Our packs were heavy with a fresh resupply and enough water to make it, in my case 3 liters. The first 7 miles were a climb up nearly 2500 feet, and once we were at elevation the temperature was a bit more comfortable. I spent most of the day listening to an audiobook, the miles passing without much consideration. When I arrived at Golden Oaks Spring before the others, I debated whether or not to continue. We had discussed perhaps going another 4 miles. However, when Benjamin arrived and wanted to set up camp and call it a day, I didn’t object, and set up my tent.

Day 51 was a 21.2 mile hike. From Golden Oaks Spring, it was another long dry stretch: 18.8 miles to Robin Spring. We planned to get to the spring and then hike a little further, to a large campsite marked in Guthooks. Much of the day was spent hiking under tree cover, which was nice. It began storming nearby around 2 PM, and just after Joren, Benjamin and I reached the 600 mile mark, it began to pour and hail. We sheltered under some small oaks for a bit as the worst of the rain passed, thunder booming overhead. Once it cleared slightly, we pressed on in a light rain to the next spring. As we filled up, lightning flashed just a few miles away repeatedly, and the rain picked up. We rushed the remaining 2.4 miles to the campsite, thankfully also running away from the direction of the storm. After a little bit at the campsite, the rain stopped, and we all enjoyed dinner together outside of our tents. Assuming it’s not raining in the morning, we’re hoping to do 26.4 miles tomorrow.

We planned for day 52 to be our first marathon day. After a stream a couple miles in to our hike, the next water source was a cache at Bird Spring Pass, where we planned to camp. Storms threatened in the early afternoon, so I pushed hard to out-hike the weather. Other than a few sprinkles, I was successful, dodging some heavy rain and thunder. The miles themselves were fairly easy, and it was a good day to push big miles. I got to the campground about 11 hours after starting, having completed my first marathon day. I was elated and only a little sore. We enjoyed a fantastic sunset and a warm evening.

On day 53, we had 20.5 miles to get to the campground at Walker Pass, with the plan being to hitch into Lake Isabella the following day to resupply. The scenery was changing, the mountains rising higher than they have in hundreds of miles. Dramatic granite peaks make up the horizon now, and about 3 miles into the day’s hike, we got our first view of the Sierra Nevada. The snowy peaks were intimidating, now less than 100 miles away. They loomed in view for miles, a reminder of what’s to come. My feet were quite sore by the end of the hike, having covered 85 miles in 4 days. Thankfully, trail magic awaited us at Walker Pass, and we had brats, beer and ice cream for dinner.

Today is day 54. We’re taking a zero as we resupply for the 3 day stretch to Kennedy Meadows, the start of the Sierra. We hitched to Lake Isabella, nearly 45 minutes from Walker Pass, which is firmly in the middle of nowhere. We had a nice lunch and will go to the grocery store next. We’ll hitch back to Walker Pass later today, spend the night there and hike out tomorrow. The true challenge of the Sierra awaits.